Expedition CV

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September 2011 Genyen Massif and  Shaluli Shan Range, China

First Ascent of Crown Mountain (18,420) via southwest ridge

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/2011-lyman-spitzer-winners

 

February-March 2009 Pirate Valley Expedition, Argentina

First Ascent of Voces en la Noche (V 5.11 A0)

Climbing Hot Flashes

 

July-August 2008 Ischinca Valley Expedition, Peru

First Ascent of Hatun Ulloc via Karma de los Condores (V 5.11+R), Direct west face of Tocllaraju D+(6,034 meters)

Climbing Hot Flashes

 

August 2007 Wind River Range, WY

New Route on War Bonnet “Lichen Never Sleeps” IV, 5.11b

 

October 2006 Genyen Massif Expedition, China

First Ascent of Shachun  19,570 feet   5.10+, M5, 70 degrees and Phurpa 18,500 feet 5.8, 75 degree

Climbing Hot Flashes, Alpinist Newswire Received The Shipton Tilman Grant

 

September 2006 Gannett Peak Wind River Range, WY

Speed Ascent of Gannet Peak 8:20 (new record)

Climbing Hot Flashes

 

August 2006 Cirque of the Towers Wind River Range, WY

 Cirque of the Towers  car to car 13:30 (new record)

Climbing Hot Flashes

 

June 2005 Mt Huntington Alaska Range, AK

Attempted new route on French Ridge 1000 ft 5.11 A1

 

September-November 2004 The Long Walk Russia to India

Retraced the amazing trek chronicled in the book The Long Walk. Moscow to Calcutta Recorded the changes to people and environment during the last 60 years on film and video. Worked with Medicines Global (GB) providing medical supplies to remote communities

Received Malden Mills Polartec Challenge  Award

 

March-April 2004 Avellano Towers Expedition, Chile

Mountaineering expedition to an unexplored region of Northern Patagonia

First Ascent of the 4,000 ft Avellano Tower IV 5.10 AI3

Climbing Hot Flashes Alpinist Newswire Received the Mugs Stump Award and Mazamas Mountaineering Grant

 

 June-July 2003  Greyskull Valley Expedition, Canada

Mountaineering expedition to unexplored area in British Columbia Climbed rock and alpine routes

Received The Gore Shipton/Tilman Grant, Canadian Alpine Journal 2004

 

February- March 2003 The Frozen Passage to Zanskar Expedition, India

Trekked up frozen river to explore and document remote culture Climbed frozen waterfalls in Zanskar Gorge

Received Mazamas Mountaineering Grant, Expedition News

 

August 2002 Wind River Range, WY

First one day (16 hours) ascent of the Original Route on Mt Hooker VI, 5.11+,A1

 

December-January 2001-02  Changing Faces of Nepal Expedition, Nepal

Climbed  Kwandge Lho and Lobuche East Explored and climbed virgin waterfall ice in the Lumding Valley

Outside Online

 

August 2001 Wind River Range WY

First car to car traverse of the Cirque of the Towers in a day (AAJ 2002 pages 220-221,

Climbing Magazine August 2003 page 45)

 

May 2001 Mt Huntington AK Expedition, AK

Climbed the West Face of Mount Huntington

 

February-March 2001 Patagonia Expedition, Argentina

Summitted two of the main formations in the Fitzroy Massif Reporter/photographer for Quokka Sports

(see Adventures in Patagonia www.mountainzone.com)

August 2000 Grand Traverse of the Tetons Range, WY

Onsight car to car traverse in a day of all the main peaks of the Teton Range

(AAJ 2001 page189)

 

June-July 2000 Forbidden Towers Expedition, Pakistan

Explored Kondus Valley, previously closed to foreigners Climbed 3500ft granite tower, Tahir Tower VI 5.11 A3+

(AJJ 2001 pages 367-68, Climbing Magazine Dec 2001) MaldenMills Polartec Award, Liman Spitzner Grant, Reporter/photographer for Mountainzone.com (The Forbidden Towers Expedition, www.mountainzone.com)

 

December-February 1999-2000 Patagonia Expedition, Argentina

Sumitted three of the main formations in the Fitzroy Massif

(High Magazine 215 page 76, High Magazine 214 page74) Mermoz Red Pillar Desnival

 

June 1998 Little Switzerland Expedition, AK

Climbed several new routes

(AAJ 1999 192, High Magazine 217 page 76, Alaska a climbing Guide pages 71-73) Supertopo Alaska Guide

 

May 1998 India Garhwal Expedition, India

Mountaineering expedition to Nanda Devi area

 

January 1998 Newfoundland Ice Climbing Expedition, Canada

Explored and climbed new routes in Western Newfoundland.

(AAJ 2000 p. 236)

 

September 1997 Cascades Range., WA

Soloed West Ridge on Forbidden Peak, North Ridge on Mt Stuart and Prusik Peak in 72 hours

 

September 1995 Canadian Rockies Expedition, Canada

Climbed numerous peaks in Canadian Rockies and Bugaboos

 

August 1995 Dalton Highway Expedition, AK

Explored the Arctic Wildlife Refuge

 

June 1995 Alaska Range Expedition, AK

Climbed West Buttress Denali

 

October 1994 Central Alaska River Exploration, AK

Kennicot to the Chitna River

 

December/January 1992-93  Ecuador Expedition

Climbed the three highest peaks in Ecuador Trekked in the cloud forest of Northern Ecuador

 

March 1987  Mexico Expedition

Climbed the three highest peaks in Mexico

 

March 1986 Utah Canyon Exploration

Grand Gulch Primitive Area

 

April 1982 Ragged Mountain, CT

First Climb Wiessner Slab 5.3